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Linguine with Lemony Clam Sauce

 

Living by the sea, I have access to the freshest seafood, which always compels me to create dishes like this fabulous pasta sauce enhanced with both lemon zest and fresh lemon thyme. I like to use the smallest littleneck clams for best flavor. If you don't have any fresh lemon thyme, simply omit it-don't substitute dried thyme. A glass of red wine and plenty of Tangy Garlic Bread (page 17), are the only accompaniments you'll want.

1 tablespoon fruity olive oil
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
I small onion, chopped 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/4 cup dry white vermouth
4 to 5 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed well
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for serving
1 teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper
12 ounces linguine
1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Fresh lemon thyme leaves (2 to 3 sprigs)
Grated zest of 1 large lemon
2 tablespoons drained capers, optional
 

Heat the oil over high heat in a heavy nonreactive saucepan, large enough to accommodate all the clams. Add the garlic, onion, oregano, and hot red pepper flakes and cook for 2 minutes or until the onion is tender. Add the vermouth and clams. Cover and cook until the clams open, about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on their size, discarding any that do not open. Remove the pan from the heat and, using tongs, transfer the clams to a large tray or bowl.

When they are cool enough to handle, remove the clam meat, reserving a handful in their shells for garnish, if you like, and very coarsely chop any extra-large clams; set aside.
Stir the butter, Parmesan cheese, salt, and pepper into the saucepan.

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until slightly more al dente than usual. Drain the pasta well and add it to the sauce in the pan. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and toss gently for 1 minute or until the pasta absorbs most-but not all-the sauce. Add the clams and toss just until heated through. Transfer to a large warmed platter and sprinkle with parsley, lemon thyme, lemon zest, and capers, if using them. Bring to the table and toss again, using two forks, before serving. Serve with extra Parmesan cheese and pass the peppermill.

Makes 4 servings

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